Half a Century in Shinshu: Seikazan Yakiniku Spot in Matsumoto – A Haven for Drinkers’ Appetites (Nov.2024)

After attending the ‘Annual Meeting of Shinshu Lovers’—our group’s first gathering since the COVID pandemic suspended our meetings—I headed to a famous restaurant I hadn’t visited in years, which still remains unchanged. This is my nighttime report from a wander through Matsumoto, the second-largest city in Nagano (Shinshu), in November 2024.

Where Are the People Who Knew Ura-machi Half a Century Ago?

It’s been a long time since I last visited “Ura-machi,” meaning ‘the backstreets town.’ Looking at the current scene, I wonder if it’s too much of a romanticized image of the bustling past—seeing how things have changed. Or perhaps it’s just the lingering effects of a night of drinking after today’s party.

If those who knew Matsumoto 50 years ago were to see the hustle and bustle in front of Matsumoto Station today, they might be bewildered. In contrast, the calmness of the current backstreets town may offer them a sense of relief.

I Wonder What Was Around the Corner from That Tobacco Shop at That Time?

I found myself standing at the corner of the tobacco shop where many students used to gather, especially late at night. While the atmosphere of those days still lingers, there’s no sign of the culture where smoking was a part of everyday life. It has literally vanished, like cigarette smoke itself.

This area was once home to many student boarding houses. If we turned the corner, the doors—no matter who lived there—were often unlocked, and we could slip inside for a drink while waiting for someone to come home.

I also had the odd feeling that the very existence of the tobacco shop might have been just an illusion, like seeing my memories through the haze of tobacco smoke.

The Iconic Store, a Symbol of the Northern Limit of Ura Town, Is Gone (😿 tears 😢).

I heard that the iconic store, “Uta,” a beloved and comfortable coffee restaurant, once operated as a karaoke snack bar until a few years ago. But today, I found it is also gone. For many years, it had served as a sanctuary for struggling students—like a guardian deity at the northern boundary of Ura Town. The new restaurant that has taken its place seems to be another karaoke snack bar. However, the letters on its signboard, which I photographed to commemorate my visit, are glowing and unreadable, so I can’t introduce the name of the new establishment.

The sign of the barbecue restaurant “Seikazan,” which has been burned into the memories of many students, stands right in front of me again!

Half a century later, the signboard of “Seikazan”—meaning “Blue Mountain with Flower”—still stands, like a real mountain towering high above the wide expanse. Yes, it was! “Seikazan” was a Korean restaurant and a famous yakiniku spot. Back then, I was always having ramen and a glass of sake at the after-party, so I must have forgotten that part of the restaurant. Naturally, I didn’t dwell on that memory anymore and happily went inside, full of excitement.

Oh, I miss it! I remember so many things that happened in this seat of the box.

There seemed to be a group of people at the back of the restaurant, but the seats near the entrance were empty, so I sat there for a while, chatting with the owner and his wife, enjoying a glass of sake and the fine meat—something I definitely couldn’t have afforded as a poor student at the time. (I’ll leave the photos of the delicious food to the gourmet food blogs, so I won’t go into them here.)

Finally, I left with great respect and gratitude for the God who has watched over this mountain!

When I was a student, I was so afraid to talk to him that I hardly remember speaking to him. But this time, I had the opportunity to converse a lot with him, the guardian of this legendary restaurant. When I asked him about the history of yakiniku restaurants in Matsumoto, he mentioned ‘Daikeien,’ another iconic yakiniku spot that used to be located on the street in front of the station. I learned that this restaurant started in the 1950s and is now run by the second generation, with the current owner (who is still cooking in the kitchen) working alongside his wife. I left the restaurant after expressing our respect and gratitude for his dedication in watching over a place still beloved by many customers.

💛Thank you for reading to the end. If you’re traveling to Matsumoto and looking for a delicious meal after a few drinks, we highly recommend the Korean cuisine and barbecue restaurant “Seikazan” at 5-6-1 Ote, Matsumoto City! (Faculty of Humanities: Enrolled in 1975: R)