After attending the ‘Annual Meeting of Shinshu Lovers’—our group’s first gathering since being suspended during the onset of the COVID pandemic—I embarked on a journey through the region to rediscover its timeless traditions and enduring beauty. This is my report on wandering through Shinshu, Nagano, in November 2024.
Zenkoji Temple: Like a Bird Flapping Its Wings!
Zenkoji Temple in Nagano is one of Japan’s most renowned temples! Whenever I visited Nagano, Zenkoji Temple was always on my itinerary, whether with friends or colleagues.
In my younger days, my friends and I would walk to the temple, full of energy, and stop for drinks in Gondo Town along the way—a little tradition of ours. When visiting with colleagues from work, we often took the Nagano Electric Railway for convenience.
This time, however, I chose to take the bus. Having explored various routes over the years, I now find the bus to be the most comfortable and convenient option—especially for someone my age!
Which Course Is Most Recommended?
With all due respect to the locals, I must admit that I don’t have a deep knowledge of Zenkoji Temple. However, I am always drawn to its fame, which has become synonymous with Nagano itself. On my previous visits, I would often wander casually around the temple grounds, enjoying the atmosphere without giving it much thought.
The Smoke from the Incense Stings My Eyes
As the years have passed and I’ve grown older, I’ve started to feel my strength and stamina wane. Perhaps it’s also because I recently learned that Mr. T, a college junior of mine, passed away last year and was laid to rest here at Zenkoji Temple. Maybe that’s why the smoke from the incense feels like it clings to my eyes more than ever.
A View of Nagano City from the Temple Gate
I climbed up to the temple gate, hoping for a bird’s-eye view of Nagano City. To be honest, the view wasn’t particularly spectacular—understandably so, as the elevation difference is minimal. Still, standing there, I could gaze in all directions and take in the scenery of Nagano. Perhaps it was a touch of melancholy, knowing that photography is prohibited inside the temple, that made the moment more poignant.
It was my first time seeing Nagano City through the grid-like net of the gate, almost as if viewing it through a sheet of square paper. The unique perspective left a deep impression on me, touching my heart in a way I hadn’t expected.
Meet the Main Hall That Consoles Sufferers for Over 1,000 Years
I climbed up to the gate, hoping to capture a bird’s-eye view of the city. From the other side of Nagano, I could see the majestic main hall of Zenkoji Temple in the foreground.
The main hall, believed to have its origins in the 7th century, has stood as a beacon of solace and hope for over 1,000 years. Welcoming countless common people in times of hardship, it continues to offer a place of comfort and reflection for all who visit.
I’ve Visited Many Times Before, but Never with Quiet Reflection
The landscape to the north of the main hall at Zenkoji Temple reminded me of Higashiyama in Kyoto, and I couldn’t resist taking a photo. Unlike the usual crowds of young people excitedly snapping pictures for their Instagram feeds, I noticed many quiet foreign tourists who seemed to blend perfectly with the peaceful atmosphere of Nagano.
Though I’ve visited Zenkoji many times before, this was the first time I experienced it in such a tranquil setting, allowing me the space for quiet reflection.
💛Thank you for reading until the end. If you’re traveling to Nagano and seeking a peaceful retreat, I highly recommend Zenkoji Temple—it’s the perfect place to soak up some tranquility.
(Faculty of Humanities: Enrolled in 1975: R)
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